
From boudin noir to bacon baguettes, London is going big once again on this wine-drenched celebration, writes Carys Sharkey
Next week’s Fête du Beaujolais Nouveau is like Christmas Day for wine-lovers and/or people from Swansea. The third Thursday of November rings in the mad celebrations over the release of the first vintages from Beaujolais in eastern France.
Jason Haynes, founding director of wine importer Flint, tells me it’s a huge day for drinkers and makers alike: “The third Thursday in November is a chance not just to sample the new vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau, but to shine a light on the more ‘serious’ wines from the ten Beaujolais Crus, such as Fleurie and Morgon. It’s an important day for the region’s winemakers – even those who don’t make a Nouveau. Why’s it so popular in the city? Well, Thursday is the new Friday, but not only that, with its fresh, chillable and accessible (in terms of price too) style, Beaujolais has really captured the imagination of a new generation of wine drinkers.”
London might not match Wales on this one, but we can try. Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!
Noble Rot x Henry Harris: Because where else for Fête du Beaujolais? Henry Harris of Bouchon Racine is on the stoves, cooking up his signature Lyonnaise fare – the best in London – for a Gallic extravaganza. Punters spill onto Lamb’s Conduit Street like a split andouillette to knock back wine from some top vignerons.
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SUBSCRIBE HEREThree Compasses: If you can’t face heaving Soho, then head to the source. Three Compasses, the pub below the aforementioned Bouchon Racine, is serving up a truly unmatched start to the day. From 7:30am, you can get a bacon baguette and a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau for a tenner. Once it’s gone, it’s gone. Early bird catches le ver.
Sune x Will Gleave Lunch: Hackney restaurant Sune will welcome Will Gleave, Chef-Patron of Sargasso in Hackney-upon-Sea/Margate. The three-course set menu lunch will be inspired by Lyonnaise cooking, priced at £49 a person, including half a carafe of Nouveau from the barrel. After lunch, celebrations will continue outside with Sune’s annual barrel-bottling party, with hot dogs and oysters.
: The Entente Cordiale is alive and well at The Victory, which is basically a Dulwich pub with excellent French food. Executive chef Seán Breen, formerly of Noble Rot, has crafted a special Beaujolais menu heavy with roast duck, blood sausage and oeufs. The four-course menu is £75 and includes half a bottle of beaujolais nouveau. Chin chin.
: It’s more Entente Uncordial in North London. Newington Green’s irreverent new pub The Golden Tooth is throwing a celebration of English wine and food on this most sacred of French days. Sacré bleu, the team will be pouring a Pinot Noir from Sandridge Barton. It’s Totnes takes Toulouse. The food will be English versions of French classics, like pâté en croûte (sausage roll) and frites (chips and curry sauce).
: The much-loved south east London wine bar Peckham Cellars is throwing a joint 7th birthday beaujolais day party. Free entry with free-flowing wine, there will be burgers and DJs. If you fancy something a little more chill, head to Veraison Wines down the way in Camberwell for some really exciting pours for this most auspicious of days.