The world of watches is often buried beneath glossy PR scripts, corporate data sheets, and carefully rehearsed press events. Making Time is a chance to strip all that away by pulling up a chair with some of the industry’s most influential figures and passionate watch collectors, a chance to talk about the human reality of collecting: the emotional side of the pursuit, the regrets, the hard choices and, above all, the passion.

I sat down with Anthony de Haas, director of product development at A Lange & Söhne, the man responsible for some of the most complex mechanical creations on earth. But behind the German precision lies the soul of an enthusiast who still remembers every gear in his very first proper watch.

What’s on the wrist of A Lange & Söhne’s product chief?

So, what’s on your wrist today, and why?

Tony de Haas: I’m wearing a prototype of the Minute Repeater Perpetual, the novelty we launched last year. I’m wearing it because we are testing a new lubrication. It’s an honour, of course, to wear this piece. I’m wearing it for a couple of weeks, and every week we will take measurements and check the lubrication under the microscope. We’re continuously testing.

How many watches do you own? Do you know off the top of your head or would you have to check?

I’m not a big watch collector – I think I have 10 or 11. Certainly not all A Lange watches. I have a Lange watch, Seikos, two Longines and an IWC from the early days when I worked there.

What takes you longer: deciding on your shoes or your watch?

Shoes. Because for shoes I have to think, ‘Okay, what kind of suit or jeans or trousers do I put on?’ That takes more time, because I need to look at other stuff to combine. A watch is just like, boom! I am in an excellent position that I can’t go wrong with the watch I wear, of course.

His first watch: A Longines automatic

What was the first proper watch you bought with your own money?

It was a Longines automatic. L919 calibre. It was a used watch from 1979, a double barrel, very nice, thin movement. I still have it.

And I’ve still got my grandfather’s solid gold Longines. Is there a style of watch you actively avoid? Anything too flashy, dressy or trendy?

Yeah, I’m not a trendy guy. I’m more about timeless – I’ve been too long at A Lange & Söhne! I like the timelessness of the design. I’m not a fan of, ‘Oh wow, that’s cool! A watch with a green dial,’ or something like that. I think timelessness and quality is more important. Or emotion, you know? Memories. When I was 10, I got a Seiko 5 from my parents, an automatic, and I still have it. That’s an emotional thing.

I know you said you’re not much of a watch collector, but would picking up a genuine classic for a song on eBay or in a flea market still give you a buzz?

No.

Do you wear every watch you own, or are some too precious?

No, I wear everything I have.

If the house is on fire, what single watch would you grab?

My Lange! That’s the only one. Or maybe the first Seiko from my parents.

Is that your most precious watch?

Emotionally, yes.

The Longines that found its way back

Is there a watch in your collection that has a personal story that’s got nothing to do with watchmaking?

I have one. I did watchmaking school in Holland, for four years. The first three years you do school, and then you do your exam, and then you have your internship in the last year. I went and worked at a watch shop with two watchmakers and three goldsmiths.

It was quite a big shop, with nice watches. They let me just go through the drawers and everything to find my way around. And in a rack I saw a really damaged Longines. The glass was gone, the dial was scratched, and there was rust in the movement.

The owner said, ‘You know what? That’s a nice project for you. You restore that watch, and then we sell it. Learn how to polish the case, redo everything, order the parts…’ So I restored the watch, and I really loved it. When I finished it, he said I’d done an excellent job and he put it in the shop window. I wanted to buy it but I couldn’t afford it. Two days later, he said, ‘Congratulations, I sold the watch’.

About 10 months later, on the last day of my apprenticeship, they gave me that watch as a leaving gift! That made me so happy. Of course I still own it today – so I have two Longines.

Regrets, quartz and IWC Porsche Design

Is there a watch you regret buying?

Hm. Not really. I’m a big fan of the IWC Porsche Design watches from the 80s and 90s, the titanium ones. I considered buying one but I thought, you know what, I’m not going to wear it so why should I have it? If I buy a watch, I need to wear it. I’m not going to buy it to put it in a safe.

Is there anything you regret selling?

No, because I never sold one.

An easy one, then! How do you feel about quartz watches?

Great! I repaired them. I worked six years at Seiko Netherlands in the after-sales department, so I did a lot of quartz. I did the old 7A’s, I did the ultra-thin Lassale’s with the very thin movements. Seiko is a great high-tech company.

Do you ever spot someone’s watch and stop them to ask more?

I met someone wearing a special edition of the Ocean 2000 Porsche Design IWC diver, one that was made for the German navy. They had a black bezel and a red hand. I used to repair them! I stopped them to say ‘That’s a very special watch’.

Life at A Lange & Söhne

Do you ever worry you take watches too seriously?

No. I don’t take myself too seriously. I have a team of technicians, engineers and movement designers who have the day-to-day struggles of finding solutions for problems – there is enough seriousness in the company. But humour can be a good way to find solutions.

On the bumpy road of developing a watch, you have problems. And that’s cool because you get to solve them. It’s fun! You have a dream, and you try to reach that dream. If you start moaning, you don’t find a solution.

How does your other half feel about your relationship with watches?

Sometimes she says, ‘Okay, you have two daughters, you have me, but Lange is your baby.’ And it is a bit true. It’s always been like that. Today it’s better because my daughters are aged 24 and 26, so they have their own thing now. But work-life balance has been a struggle sometimes. Having said that, I’ve never been the guy who works from 7am until 10pm. When I wasn’t travelling, I would be home for dinner.

But there is an internal conflict, you know? I’m a person who lives intensely. I’m an emotional, intense guy.

Have you ever thought that in some ways you are immortal, because the watches you have created will be here long after we’ve gone?

No, I don’t think so much about that, although it is probably true. But I don’t take myself that seriously. Especially in the world we live in today, where the craziest things are happening. It would be good for the world if more people would take themselves less seriously. What we do at A Lange & Söhne is not only me. I’m just one part of the puzzle. But you need all the pieces for the puzzle to work.

Radar Love: The drumming watchmaker

One last question! I know you’re a keen drummer and that you were taught to play by Cesar Zuiderwijk from Golden Earring. Would you swap everything you’ve achieved to play the drums on their biggest hit Radar Love?

No, because I already did play the drums on Radar Love! It was on a Dutch television show, 33 years ago. I have it on my Instagram!